Source the right cut. Buy from a local meat market or butcher — picanha is rarely in US supermarkets. Look for the distinct triangular shape and a thick fat cap on top. Aim for at least ½ inch of fat; that fat is where picanha shines, so don't let it be trimmed off.

Cut the steaks. Place the picanha fat side up on a cutting board and slice it into 1-inch steaks with the grain — you'll see long striations of muscle fiber running along each steak. A 2½–3 lb picanha yields about 6 steaks. Cutting with the grain now means that when you slice each cooked steak to eat it, you'll be cutting against the grain, which makes for a far more tender bite.

Season. Season each steak generously on both faces with coarse kosher salt, and don't skip the sides — including the fat cap. Brazilian steakhouses season picanha with salt alone, so that's all this recipe uses. Add more seasoning only if you want to depart from the traditional version.

Heat the grill. Set your burners to high and let the grill come fully up to temperature for maximum sear. Leave one section unlit or with no coals underneath for the indirect finish.

Sear. Lay the steaks over direct high heat and sear about 2–3 minutes per side. Then stand the steaks on their edges with tongs to get direct heat on the sides, especially the fat cap, so it chars and renders.

Finish over indirect heat. Once the sear looks right, move the steaks to the indirect side of the grill and cook until an instant-read thermometer registers 125°F in the center. Pull them off at that temperature.

Rest. Let the steaks rest 5 minutes before cutting. Residual heat keeps cooking the inside while they rest, carrying them to a juicy medium.

Slice and serve. Cut each steak against the grain into strips and serve immediately, with the rendered fat on each slice.